https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards.atomKono Store - Articles2023-06-08T09:15:11-07:00Kono Storehttps://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/how-to-clean-a-mechanical-keyboard2023-06-08T09:15:11-07:002024-01-08T11:48:32-08:00How To Clean a Mechanical KeyboardGardner MounceIt’s essential to give your keyboard a regular cleaning regimen. Learn about our keyboard cleaning recommendations here!
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Here’s a sad fact: we’re gross! Our fingers ooze oil. Our skin flakes off. Our body sheds hair as fast as we can grow it. Despite our best efforts to keep our keyboards clean, the reality is that we’re all just grubby little garbage people. Given enough time, our natural processes will reduce a keyboard to the hygenic level of a public bus seat.
That’s why it’s essential to give your keyboard a regular cleaning regimen. We suggest two: a quick clean every two or so weeks and a deep clean every four to six months.
Method 1: Quick Clean
Use this method to remove germs, debris, dust, and hair, and also to prevent the build-up of grime. Using this method every two weeks will extend your keyboard’s longevity.
Unplug your keyboard from your computer.
Turn your keyboard upside down and gently tap on it over a trash can.
If you have canned air, spray it between and beneath the keycaps to remove dust, hair, and debris.
If you have a vacuum cleaner with an attachment for small applications, suck out hair and other debris from between the keys.
If you have keyboard cleaning gel, use it to remove debris from hard-to-reach places like beneath and between the keycaps.
Spray a small amount of all-purpose cleaning solution on a microfiber cloth (do not spray anything directly on your keyboard!) and wipe your keyboard down with it.
If there’s grime in hard-to-reach spots, like between the keys, wet a q-tip with an all-purpose cleaning spray and use it to wipe off the grime.
Wipe your keyboard dry with a microfiber cloth.
Method 2: Deep Clean
Use this method to thoroughly clean your keyboard of everything from germs to deep-set grime. We recommend doing this every four to six months. Because this process involves lengthy soaking and drying times, please read all of the directions before starting!
Mix a solution of warm water and dish soap in a large bowl. Soak your keycaps in it for three to four hours.
Remove your switches with a switch puller and set them aside. As your switches are protected by your keycaps, they shouldn’t be dirty. If they are, you can brush them with a dry Q-tip or use canned air to remove particulates. You should never use liquids to clean your switches.
Turn your keyboard upside down and gently tap on it over a trash can.
Either use a hand vacuum to vacuum up the debris or use a can of compressed air to blow it away. You can also use a Q-tip or tweezers to remove debris.
Spray a small amount of all-purpose cleaner on a microfiber cloth and wipe the non-electronic parts of the keyboard with it. (You should never spray anything directly on your keyboard.)
Wipe your keyboard dry with a microfiber cloth.
Reinsert your switches into your keyboard.
After they’ve soaked for three to four hours, remove your keycaps from the soapy water and rinse them in clean water.
Wipe your keycaps dry with a microfiber cloth. Because the plastic can absorb water, it’s best practice to allow the keycaps to dry for 48 hours before reassembling your keyboard.
Reassemble your keycaps on your keyboard.
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/are-mechanical-keyboards-better2022-08-22T12:37:15-07:002022-08-22T12:38:55-07:00Are Mechanical Keyboards Better?Gardner MounceMaybe you saw an amazing keyboard on Tiktok or YouTube, or you went to a friend’s house and saw them clacking away on theirs, or you saw a retro board in a show like Severance. Whatever your hook was, you’re now standing outside the keyboard hobby looking in. You’re intrigued but saying: yeah, they’re cool, but are they worth taking the leap?
Every hobby requires a commitment of research time and money, and keyboards are no different. I’m not going to lie: I’m biased. I love keyboards. I mean, I work for a keyboard company. It’s pretty obvious. So I’m just going to put all of my cards on the table and say it: in this article, I’m going to try to convince you to get into mechanical keyboards.
Better than what?
I should start off by saying that I’m comparing mechanical keyboards to rubber membrane keyboards and scissor switch keyboards, those monstrosities found in many laptops like the MacBook Pro. If you’d like more information on those, check out our article, What is a Mechanical Keyboard?
They’re better for gaming
When it comes to gaming, you want a switch that has a balance of quick actuation and fast return, yet one that’s heavy enough to prevent accidental presses. For you, this could be a light linear switch or a thick tactile switch with distinct feedback. Everybody’s different, and findingthe right switch is easier said than done. Prepare yourself for trial and error.
If you were to buy just any keyboard on Amazon or Office Depot, you’d likely be buying one that doesn’t allow for hot-swapping (i.e. the ability to change the switches out at will). What this means is that the keyboard you buy is the keyboard you’re stuck with–for better or worse. Why is this bad? Well, you might buy a keyboard that uses clicky switches without even knowing what a clicky switch is–or that you’ll come to hate them. You might buy a keyboard that uses linear switches when what you would really game best with is tactile. Without the ability to hot swap? Tough luck.
Hot-swappable mechanical keyboards allow you to home in on exactly the switch that’s going to make you a better gamer.
They’re better for typing
As with gaming, a hot-swappable mechanical keyboard allows you to home in on the best typing switch for you. For many, this means linear switches. Unlike gaming, which requires split-second decision-making that can benefit from tactility bumps, typing benefits from whatever prevents fatigue. But you may decide that you actually prefer tactile switches, and that’s okay! The best part of the mechanical keyboard hobby is that you can customize your board to your exact preferences.
They’re better for ergonomics
While it’s possible to buy ergonomic non-mechanical keyboards, they generally limit the degree of ergonomic support they provide. Take this keyboard, for instance. 4.5 stars on Amazon! The answer to your chronic pain!
Well…maybe, but that depends on a lot of factors, including where your chronic pain is located, your height, arm length, desk height, shoulder width, and much more. The harsh reality is that ergonomics is not one-size-fits-all. You want a keyboard that allows for as much customization as possible. A better solution is to get a split ergonomic keyboard like this one.
If you have upper back pain, a split keyboard allows you to spread the two halves of the keyboard across your desk so that your shoulders roll back, and your upper back can relax. Unlike the “ergonomic” keyboard from Amazon, you can separate the halves to the exact width that you need. (As a writer with chronic upper back pain, let me tell you that owning a split keyboard has changed my life.)
If you have wrist pain from supination or pronation, a split keyboard that “tents” is going to help you immensely. A tented keyboard inclines towards the middle so that your wrists are rotated to a more natural and sustainable position. What works for your wrist pain might not work for others, so look for a tented keyboard that allows for at least some control over the angle.
If you have finger pain from extending to reach faraway keys, an ortholinear keyboard might help. Ortholinear keyboards align the keys in straight rows rather than the traditional staggering method we’re all used to seeing. Of course, getting used to the new alignment will take some time.
Beyond these solutions, there are some cutting edge and DIY methods that are worth exploring. The Dactyl/Manuform Keyboard is perhaps the holy grail of keyboard ergonomics, as it provides every ergonomic solution we’ve covered so far and more, the most obvious of which is its “manuform” shape that conforms to the natural shape of your hands. Your mileage may vary with such an extreme keyboard, and it’s always advisable to try simpler solutions, like split and tented keyboards, first.
They sound better
Spend sixty seconds browsing keyboard TikTok or YouTube and you’ll find example after example of incredible-sounding keyboards–and all of them are mechanical. Due to the huge number of sound-changing accessories and mods like o-rings, switches, and foam liners, the sound of a keyboard is as customizable as its aesthetic. You could probably manage to apply some of these mods to non-mechanical keyboards, but not nearly as extensively or easily as you can with a mechanical keyboard. That’s because modern mechanical keyboards typically use hot-swap boards and discrete parts that allow you to disassemble and reassemble the entire board without using a soldering gun.
They feel better to the touch
Mechanical keyboards offer multiple tactile experiences that non-mechanical keyboards don’t, or only to a limited degree. Keycaps, for instance, come in many different profiles, heights, and textures. There are flat, spherical, and smooth keycaps that mimic old-school typewriters. There are sculpted, cylindrical, and textured keycaps that conform naturally to the hand. And there are many more. Newbies to the hobby are often surprised by how many ways that a keyboard can feel to the touch. Finding your perfect set is a matter of trial and error, but the exploration process is fun and rewarding.
They feel more real
Another tactile experience that mechanical keyboards offer is the feeling of realness. If you’ve ever gone from playing an electronic keyboard to playing an acoustic piano, you know what I’m talking about.The electronic keyboard key is plastic and flimsy, whereas the acoustic piano key is weighty and responsive. Going from a non-mechanical to a mechanical keyboard is the same way. This is because a mechanical keyboard uses mechanical switches that physically travel and touch the keyboard’s motherboard. As simple as the mechanism sounds, there are an endless number of ways that keyboard switches can be made to produce different speeds, push-back feelings, tactile bumps, and more.
There are more and better aesthetic options
In the world of commercial keyboards, there are three basic aesthetics available: sleek and minimal (Apple Magic Keyboard), LED-lit and gamery (Razer), and black and chunky (everything else). If your aesthetic falls outside of these categories, sorry. You’re out of luck.
The world of mechanical keyboards is very different. Unlike Apple and Razer, who are beholden to shareholders and quarterly projections blah blah blah, mechanical keyboard designers often use the “Group Buy” model of marketing (think Kickstarter). With this model, designers can create unique and particular designs that appeal to smaller, niche markets. How niche? I’m talking espresso lovers, aviation aficionados, and jungle witches.
They can work as interior design
Maybe you don’t have niche interests, per se, or at least not any that are so near and dear to your heart that you need them objectified in a keyboard. Heard. Lucky for you, there are droves of keyboards that just look really, really pretty. These little artsy marvels are perfect for tying together the colors of your office or adding a pop of aesthetic pleasure to your workspace.
A non-mechanical keyboard is like a flatscreen TV. When it breaks outside of the warranty window, unless you’ve got an electrical engineering degree and a soldering gun, you’re out of luck. A mechanical keyboard, on the other hand, is like a bicycle. The parts are discrete and easy to disassemble. If the tire pops or the chain breaks, you can easily replace it yourself. And because the parts are discrete, you can make informed decisions on the best, longest-lasting ones to buy.
It’s very easy to buy long-lasting, sustainable parts for your mechanical keyboard. Here are some examples. ABS plastic tends to get shiny over a number of years, but PBT keycaps keep their appearance for decades. Cherry MX switches are rated for 50 million keypresses, which translates to 10 to 15 years of heavy use. Barring water damage or other catastrophe, a good circuit board should last 50-70 years. So don’t buy a flatscreen TV that’s going to end up in a landfill. Buy a mechanical keyboard that can be sustainably repaired over time.
They’re more likely to be programmable
If you’re sitting there with a non-programmable keyboard, you’re probably thinking, Programmability? Big deal. I, too, used to hold this bad opinion and feel no shame about it. But then I got a programmable keyboard.
A programmable keyboard allows you to create your own hotkeys, keymaps, layers, and macros. Want to use one keymap for general use and another one for playing Elden Ring? You can do that. Want to bring the number row to the home row with a press of the function key? Or bring the Backspace key into reach? You can do that, too. Want to completely remap your keyboard to Dvorak? You can do that, too. A programmable keyboard allows you to fully customize everything about your keyboard. It’s an insane productivity boost and life hack that I didn’t know I was missing out on until I got a programmable board for myself.
They’re endlessly customizable
A mechanical keyboard is customizable from caps to cable. Chances are you can find whatever keyboard you can imagine no matter your aesthetic. Do you want a keyboard that sounds exactly like the keyboards of your childhood school computer lab? You got it. Do you want a keyboard that looks like it can launch a rocket into space? You got it. Do you want a keyboard that sounds deep and muted or loud and obnoxious? You got it.
They offer a better sense of community
You’re probably a lot like me. Before I got into mechanical keyboards, all of my friendships were founded on a shared love of non-mechanical keyboards. My entire social network, in fact, was composed of people who deeply identified with keyboards that were not mechanical. My friends and I loved commercial keyboards! You, too, probably met your friends in the aisles of Office Depot, where you exchanged quick glances (community!). Or shared a laugh in the Non-Programmable Keyboard Discord (memes!). Ah yes, you and your friends are deeply passionate about commercial keyboards, and your social life is a rich tapestry.
No? Hm. That’s a shame. I’m sorry and kind of shocked that it didn’t work out that way for you. Well, the good news is that the community that you missed out on in non-mechanical keyboards is available in mechanical keyboards. The community is–honestly–massive, with YouTube channels, in-person meetups, group buys, kickstarters, forums, Discord servers, subreddits, TikTok accounts and more. There are tons of ways to meet people, share your interests, be creative, and, frankly, make up for lost time!
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/keycap-group-buy-guide2022-08-22T11:51:32-07:002022-08-22T12:39:11-07:00Keycap Group Buy GuideGardner MounceWhat is a Group Buy?
A Group Buy is a form of crowdfunding, like Kickstarter. When you join a Group Buy, you pre-order the product you want to be made, usually at a much lower cost than retail.
At first glance, a Group Buy page looks like a regular product page, but there are major differences:
The product doesn’t actually exist yet—only the designs do.
You pay for the product up front—before manufacturing begins.
The product only gets made if enough people join the Group Buy.
If too few people join the Group Buy, the product will not get made, everyone’s money will be refunded, and we’ll all go listen to Elliott Smith for a little while.
Why Group Buying is Awesome
The traditional manufacturing model puts the cart before the horse. It manufactures a product that it hopes people will pay for. This can be super risky, because if no one buys the product, the manufacturer and designer lose money. This results in a risk-averse marketplace that only makes safe bets (i.e. boring keyboards).
The Group Buy model reverses the process, putting the horse before the cart. It allows customers to choose what they want to purchase before manufacturing has begun, resulting in way less risk to the manufacturer and way more niche designs. Everyone wins.
The Benefits of Group Buying at a Glance
More affordable
Fewer risks for the manufacturer and designer
More niche and unique designs for the customer
More opportunities for designers to bring their designs to life
Group Buy Phases
Group Buys work in predictable phases.
Interest Check (or IC): A designer presents their design on r/mk, geekhack.org, or another keyboard enthusiast forum, to gauge community interest. If enough people show interest in the design, the designer teams up with us at Kono to move the project to phase two.
Group Buy (or GB): We launch the Group Buy on our website, hype it on our socials, and cross our fingers that enough people join. Customers have around 30 days to join.
Production: We create samples, do quality assurance, and color-match the samples to the designs. Once we and the designer are happy with the samples, we place the order with the manufacturer.
Additional Pre-orders: Customers who did not join the Group Buy have a chance to pre-order the product.
Fulfillment: Generally six months after the Group Buy concludes, the product is shipped to customers, and the forums are suddenly awash in unboxing videos and humblebrags.
Reruns: If the unboxing videos and humblebragging results in renewed demand for the product, we’ll run an additional Group Buy—wash, rinse, repeat.
FAQs
How long do I have to join a Group Buy?
You typically have around thirty days to join a Group Buy. Follow us on Instagram, Twitter, or Discord for the most up-to-date news on new, upcoming, and soon-to-conclude Group Buys.
Why did the base kit get made but not the novelty kit?
Designers will often design ancillary kits like spacebars, novelties, and alternate alphas to flesh out their design and fulfill customers’ needs. While we’d love to see all of these ancillary kits brought to life, we often don’t. Why? Each of these kits has to receive enough pre-orders to fulfill the manufacturer’s Minimum Order Quantity (or MOQ)--the fewest number of units required to be purchased. While basically everyone who joins a Group Buy orders the base kit, fewer order the ancillary kits, and so it’s commonplace that many of those kits don’t reach the production phase.
What happens if a Group Buy fails?
Geekhack and Reddit are full of horror stories of Group Buys gone wrong: organizers running off with the money, manufacturers shuttering before production is complete, lost orders never to be returned. You don’t have to worry about any of that with our Group Buys. If a Kono Group Buy fails, we simply refund you your money, plain and simple.
Can I cancel or change my order?
We allow cancellations and changes during the Group Buy phase; however, once the production phase is underway and we’ve placed the final order with the manufacturer, the choices you made during the Group Buy are finalized. It’s very difficult at that point for us to change your order, and canceling your order might not be possible.
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/what-is-a-mechanical-keyboard2022-04-07T18:06:30-07:002022-05-03T08:33:53-07:00What Is a Mechanical Keyboard?Andrew Lekashman
For those just starting out on their mechanical keyboard journey, we hope this article will be an easy and fun first step. We’re going to tackle some of the most common questions we hear from newcomers.
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For those just starting out on their mechanical keyboard journey, we hope this article will be an easy and fun first step. We’re going to tackle some of the most common questions we hear from newcomers. Welcome!
What is a mechanical keyboard?
A mechanical keyboard is a computer keyboard that uses spring-activated switches.
A rubber membrane keyboard with its keycaps removed.
Unlike the scissor switch keyboards found in modern laptops or the rubber membrane keyboards found alongside most PCs, a mechanical keyboard uses discrete parts that can be customized in every way imaginable.
What makes it “mechanical”?
All keyboards are mechanical, right, so what makes a mechanical keyboard special? The “mechanical” aspect we’re referring to is the spring-activated switch.
Spring-activated switches, or just switches, are the components that bridge the keycap you press and the circuit board that converts your keystrokes into digital signals.
Switches are the heart and soul of mechanical keyboards because they play a decisive role in how your keyboard sounds and feels. Plus, without them your keyboard wouldn’t work.
What is a mechanical keyboard used for?
A mechanical keyboard is used primarily for typing, gaming, and programming, although they have applications in music production, graphic design, and anything else you can use a keyboard for.
Why do people use mechanical keyboards?
People use mechanical keyboards for many reasons. Some people use them in order to type and game faster. Some heavy typists use them in order to prevent themselves from making accidental keystrokes. Some people just love the way they sound and feel. Those are just a few reasons! Here are some of the many others:
For the nostalgia factor.
For sprucing up a lackluster workspace with something both fun and functional.
For expressing yourself.
For typing in low light.
For being part of a fun and thriving community.
You may find yourself relating to one or all of these reasons, but the most common reason why people use mechanical keyboards is because they give you what non-mechanical keyboards don’t: options!
How do mechanical keyboards work?
Mechanical keyboards tell your computer that a key has been pressed, so that your computer can register that keystroke in a game, browser, or other program.
This seemingly simple process all starts with the keycap, which is the piece of plastic that represents a number or letter, like “G”, that you press down with your finger.
The keycap sits on a switch, a mechanical device made of plastic, a metal spring, and metal electrical connectors. When you press the keycap down, you’re also pressing down the switch. When the switch gets pressed down, the electrical connectors inside of it touch, which creates an electrical circuit.
Just like the keycap is sitting on the switch, the switch is sitting on a circuit board, which is like the keyboard’s nervous system. The circuit board has a circuit for every keycap. When the switch’s electrical connectors touch, they form a circuit with the circuit board, which then tells your computer that a circuit has been completed: voila! Whatever circuit you pressed will appear on screen.
Are mechanical keyboards loud?
Only if you want them to be.
(Skip to 6:45 for a good sound test)
You may have heard that mechanical keyboards are louder than jackhammers, and that using one is a sure-fire way to make your housemates glare you down into a fine dust.
Let us set the record straight.
Although mechanical keyboards can be loud, they definitely don’t have to be. They’re fully customizable in the way that cars are. Just as the keyboard world has its monster trucks, it also has its ultra-quiet electric vehicles.
You may have seen articles or YouTube videos about people spending thousands of dollars on mechanical keyboards and thinking that it’s all just too expensive for you.
That couldn’t be further from the truth.
Mechanical keyboards start at around $60. Even if you’re minding a budget, you can buy pieces of a keyboard at a time until you’ve built the whole thing.
Are mechanical keyboards better for typing and gaming?
Absolutely.
Mechanical keyboards are much better for typing than average keyboards as they do not require you to “bottom out” or press all the way down. Bottoming out results in the application of unnecessary stress on your joints and fingers.
Mechanical keyboards typically only require a key to be pressed halfway to send a signal to your computer, allowing for quicker and easier typing.
For even more speed, you can use fast-activating switches that allow you to complete keystrokes more quickly and with less effort.
There are also programmable keyboards that allow you to create shortcuts, multiple layers, and even ditch the QWERTY layout all together. All of these things can save you time and effort, and lead to a faster workflow and gaming setup.
Are mechanical keyboards more ergonomic?
They absolutely can be.
A split keyboard, for example, can do wonders for your posture and upper back. A split keyboard is like a regular keyboard except separated into two independent halves. When you separate those halves on your desk, you allow your shoulders to roll back and your upper back to relax.
Some split keyboards can also be “tented,” or tilted, in a way that prevents supination pain in your wrists.
In addition to split keyboards, there are keyboards such as ortholinear keyboards that can help prevent finger strain. Ortholinear keyboards use a linear key layout rather than a staggered key layout, preventing your fingers from stretching as unnaturally or as far as with traditional layouts.
Are mechanical keyboards always wired or can I get one with Bluetooth?
Although most mechanical keyboards use a wired connection, many like the Discord TKL Mechanical Keyboard have Bluetooth connectivity. 2.4Ghz wirelss USB dongles are becoming more common as well.
Which parts of a mechanical keyboard can be customized?
Almost all of them.
The most obviously customizable components are the switches, keycaps, and removable cable if the keyboard has one. Some boards have multiple frame or body options and can come in a wide variety of colors and layouts.
How many types of switches are there?
Broadly speaking, switches are categorized into three groups. Linear, tactile, or clicky. Linear switches don’t make a noise or give a tactile bump when pressed–they’re silent and smooth. Tactile switches give a silent yet tactile bump when pressed. Clicky switches make an audible “click” and give a tactile bump when pressed.
There’s a lot more to say about switches that we don’t have time in an introductory article. Check out our Quickstart Guide for more.
Is there a difference between a mechanical keyboard and a gaming keyboard?
There can be.
Unlike a mechanical keyboard, which has a clear definition (i.e. a keyboard that uses mechanical switches), there is no clear definition of a gaming keyboard.
A gaming keyboard can use mechanical switches, rubber membranes, scissor switches, or optical switches. Really, any keyboard can be used for gaming; therefore, any keyboard can be conceivably called a gaming keyboard (even a really crappy one!).
Unfortunately, marketers being marketers, some companies will slap the name “gaming” in front of a really bad keyboard just to increase sales. For that reason, it’s better to shop for a “mechanical gaming keyboard” or “optical gaming keyboard” than just a “gaming keyboard”.
Now, are there differences between a gaming keyboard and a mechanical gaming keyboard? There can be.
You can think of a mechanical gaming keyboard as a species of mechanical keyboard, similar to how orangutans are a species of primate.
A mechanical gaming keyboard will share many similarities with a plain mechanical keyboard that’s optimized for typing or programming, but it can have differences, too. Those differences can include switch type, layout, programmability, and more, and vary from model to model.
Some of the features that manufacturers add to gaming keyboards can actually benefit gaming, but many do not. Gaming is big business, and marketers know this. Do your research and read plenty of reviews before making a purchase.
How long do mechanical keyboards last?
From a year to multiple decades, depending on the quality of the components.
As long as you keep your keyboard clean and dry, the circuit board should last between 50-70 years.
When it comes to keycaps, the determining factor for longevity is the type of plastic the keycap is made of. ABS plastic tends to get shiny with use as it absorbs the oils from your fingers over time. Eventually, the lettering will fade and a shiny patina will form. This doesn’t prevent the keycap from working, but many keyboard enthusiasts hate the way it looks.
PBT plastic on the other hand, while it can be more expensive, doesn’t absorb the oils from your fingers, so they won’t get shiny over time. Barring catastrophe, PBT keycaps should last multiple decades.
When it comes to switches, Cherry MX mechanical switches are rated for 50 million keypresses. Under heavy use, they can last between 10 and 15 years. The average rubber membrane keyboard, on the other hand, is rated for only 5 million keypresses, which roughly translates to about two years of heavy use.
What do mechanical keyboards sound like?
Clicky or clacky?
Every year, a huge number of people get into mechanical keyboards solely because of the way they sound. Some people find their sound to be nostalgic or comforting, while some even experience ASMR–a pleasant tingling sensation that runs from the scalp to the upper spine–while using them. You can find examples of this on YouTube.
One of the fascinating parts of the hobby is just how many different ways that a keyboard can sound. The reason for all of this variety is that every component of the keyboard, from the keycaps to the switches to the case itself, has an effect on the final sound. A plastic case will sound different than an aluminum case, which will sound different from a brass one–and that’s only one example.
This huge variety of keyboard sounds creates a spectrum of possibilities that common keyboard adjectives like “thocky” and “clacky” can only grasp at. The best way to get a better understanding is through watching review videos or buying a keycap switch tester.
Which mechanical keyboard switch is the best for gaming?
Linear, tactile, or speed switches.
Ideally the switch you choose for gaming will be a balance of quick actuation, fast return, and heavy enough to prevent accidental presses.
For you this could be a light linear switch, or a thick tactile switch with distinct feedback. Clicky switches work, however they aren't ideal for voice chat or games with a ton of rapid presses unless you love the noise!
You can try Kailh Speed Switches. Similar to a hair trigger, speed switches actuate earlier and faster than other switch types, giving you a slight competitive edge. These switches are easy to flutter near the top and have springs on the lighter side.
Which mechanical keyboard switch is the best for typing?
Linear switches may have the highest potential to be best.
Of course this is an opinion - much like the one above for gaming, but it has its basis in logic.
Tactile switches are a great starting point for any mechanical keyboard user, especially switches with a lighter bump, as they can be used similarly to a linear switch as the user becomes comfortable. This can help train your fingers to get used to "hovering" actuation rather than bottoming out, which can prepare you for not bottoming out on linear switches.
Unlike gaming, which requires split-second decision-making that can benefit from tactility bumps (see above), typing benefits from whatever prevents the most fatigue.
Although clicky and tactile switches can feel like they’re sending energy back into your fingers with every bumping upstroke, they actually take more energy to operate and will wear you out sooner. Linear switches, on the other hand, will conserve your energy and allow you to type for longer. However, bottoming out with any switch, including linear switches, is not good for ergonomics or fatigue.
Conclusion
Keyboards can get very interesting and there is considerable depth to explore further in this topic. Check out some of our other guides for more information on mechanical keyboards!
We hope we’ve answered your most burning keyboard questions! Please see our other articles for more tips and know-how. If you think this article is missing something important, let us know!
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/konos-quickstart-guide-to-mechanical-keyboards2021-12-29T15:46:06-08:002022-06-24T12:18:21-07:00Kono's Quickstart Guide to Mechanical KeyboardsZurryMore]]>
Hello, I'm Zurry. "Long time" mechanical keyboard enthusiast. I started with a Das Keyboard in 2012 and quickly fell in love with clicking and clacking. My next board was a WASD keyboard in 2013 with custom (anime) legends that I designed myself [so you know I'm a real one].
There seems to be a lot of confusion regarding the various aspects of mechanical keyboards, so here is a quick and easy guide to get you started.
Note: All components we are talking about here are specifically Cherry MX compatible. Cherry (the company) started a lot of these standards for mechanical keyboards, so many things are labeled "Cherry" to denote they are the same standard. This is why there's both Cherry MX stems on switches and Cherry Profile on keycaps, but manufactured by other companies.
Keyboard
Layout
The first thing to look at with a board is the Layout. The layout determines how many keys the board has and where those keys are located.
Here we are specifically talking about the ANSI layout and variants thereof. For those with ISO layouts, keep in mind the keys and sizes that are different for your region.
Layouts are often described shorthand as %, with 100% representing a full-size board with a number pad (104 keys total, generally).
Lower % means less keys (generally), so you can imagine a 96% board (like the Kira) is removing a couple keys to be more compact but retaining a vast majority.
A board without the numpad is called a TKL, ten-key-less, or 85%, as it is missing the "10-key" numpad.
From there boards keep getting smaller. 75% (like the Kono 84) has compacted the board down, but retained the F1-F12 row. A 65% (like the WhiteFox) retains the arrow keys, but loses the F1-F12 row. A 60% layout loses the arrow keys. A 40% drops the number row and is mostly just alphas with a few modifier keys.
These smaller layouts access the missing keys through Fn (function) layering, often personally customized by the user (in order for them to actually remember everything). For example, on a 40% keyboard with no numbers, the numbers 1-0 are likely under a layer (requires Fn to be held) across the top row of letters (Q through P). Smaller layouts like 40% commonly have multiple Fn layers to accomodate all of the missing keys.
Ortholinear boards are another option for layout. These boards change from the standard staggered rows into straight vertical columns, effectively making the board a grid. This keeps your fingers within a consistent vertical column when stretching to other rows, which some find to be more comfortable long term.
Split is another option of layouts, often paired with Ortholinear. This makes the board two separate pieces, allowing your hands to be spread out and your shoulders more relaxed. An example of both Split and Ortholinear is the ErgoDox.
Determining Non-standard Layouts & Keycaps
Take note of the below full size layout and note any keys that are different between this board and the non-standard board.
In order for a new keycap set to fit your board, those keys that do not match this layout will need to be included. Some sets have separate the numpad as well, so if you have a full-size make sure that is covered.
If you have a TKL keyboard, you're in luck, as a vast majority of keycap sets are built to fit this layout at a minimum.
One thing to check on every keyboard would be the bottom Modifier / Spacebar row to see if it is non-standard. The standard bottom row layout has a 6.25u spacebar, and is surrounded by all 1.25u keys. It is not uncommon to see 6u/7u spacebars, 1.5u, and 1u keys in this row as well. A quick way to measure a key is to take off a 1u key like Esc, and just see how many lengths the keycap is.
A standard bottom row layout with 1.25u Modifiers and a 6.25u Spacebar.
An alternative layout with 1.5u / 1u Modifiers and a 6u spacebar.
If you have a smaller layout, another common thing to check is right Shift. It is common for right Shift to be smaller on more compatct layouts.
Right side of the Kono 84 layout. Note the short right Shift and bottom row 1u modifier keys.
Row profiles are noted by an R followed by a number (R1, R2, R3, R4), and tells you the shape of the cap when viewed from the side. This is important to consider, otherwise your non-standard caps might be shaped slightly different than the surrounding caps.
Note that there is no standard for the ordering of the rows, so some sets will label Esc row as R4 and some will label it as R1. Just keep in mind the context of the rest of the set when noting the row numbering. Esc profile is (generally) always Esc profile, even if one set says it is R1 and another says it is R4.
Take a look below at the Keycap section for more details on keycap sizes and row profile.
Wired vs Bluetooth
Wired or Bluetooth is mostly personal preference as the latency and consistency of Bluetooth is dependent on your setup and needs. You probably know if you want Bluetooth or not already. Most Bluetooth boards should also be capable of working wired, so there's no real downside.
If you're hardcore gaming on a desktop, you might want to consider going wired for the reduced latency and to not deal with battery life. Customizing your dedicated cable is also a fun way to personalize your setup further.
Hot-swap
Hot-swap means that the PCB has sockets that allow for switches to be inserted and removed freely. Traditionally, keyboards required the switches to be soldered (welded by metal) to the PCB, thus making them effectively permanent (other than manually de-soldering and re-soldering new switches).
Hot-swap has many benefits, primarily that switches can be exchanged without the need of disassembly or soldering. This means a board can be customized aftermarket easily, as later on down the line you can easily swap out the switches for an entirely new feel. This also easily enables fully customized layouts with individual keys using specific switches, for example different switches on WASD or Spacebar.
Keycaps
In general, keycaps relating to mechanical keyboards are all compatible with the same "Cherry MX" stem. This is shaped like a plus ( + ) which you can see under each keycap. Keycaps receive the switch stem, which when aligned, fits on with a firm press. Keycaps are held to switches in a press-fit and can be removed just by carefully pulling up off of the switch, ideally with a keycap puller to reduce the chance of damage.
There are two aspects of keycaps to keep in mind for compatibility with your board, Size and Profile.
Sizes
Keycaps come in sizes denoted by their length compared to a single key. The "A" key (or any letter) is 1 unit length long, known as 1u. The standard Backspace key is 2 keys long, 2u. The Left Shift key is 2.25u. The Tab key is 1.5u. Etc.
Check your board for any unique keycap lengths, as to make sure keycap sets can fit your board properly. In compact boards, this is most commonly Right Shift and bottom row modifiers like Ctrl and Alt.
Keycap Profile / Row Profile
Keycaps have a shape to them, called the Profile, when viewed from the side. This is sometimes referred to as the "sculpt" of the cap.
Profiles are generally listed as a prefix to the keycap set. For example, Cherry Profile, SA Profile, KAT profile. Sometimes the prefix is the manufacturer, like GMK who is known for a specific profile (Cherry in this case).
Different profiles may have different shapes per "row" of the keyboard.
For example Row 1, (shortened to R1, normally the Esc row) will generally have a sharper "scoop" from top to bottom. While R3, Enter row, might be mostly flat when viewed from the side. This is to give the keys smoother angles while typing.
It is important when checking compatibility for keycap sets on a compact or non-standard layout to make sure your row profiles are being covered properly. Often compact boards will put 1u keys in R3 and R4 that have no comparable keys from a standard keycap set. You can use Novelties or blanks for keys that don't have an equivalent for that row, so you can have the right profile and they still "feel" correct while typing. Alternatively, you can use a keycap with the proper label, and just deal with a slightly different keycap shape.
Some keycap sets are a uniform profile (like SA Granite). This means the whole keycap set is the same profile, and thus you can easily swap keys to any location without mixing up the row profiles.
Materials: ABS vs PBT
ABS plastic and PBT plastic are the two most common materials for keycaps.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is a durable plastic, used commonly in toy plastics and helmets. It can have very vibrant colors and is resistant to impacts and corrosive chemicals.
The downside to ABS is that it 'shines' easily over time. Within a few months of heavy use, you may notice that matte ABS tends to develop shiny wear points, commonly seen on laptop keyboards. The upside for manufacturers is that specific colors are easier to achieve and it is simple to mold.
PBT plastic (Polybutylene Terephthalate) is a very stable material under high temperatures and strain. PBT resists shine unlike ABS, and maintains its surface over long periods. The downside is that it can be more complicated to produce for manufacturers, and thus can have a higher price.
Ideally you want to favor PBT plastic over ABS, however many manufacturers may only produce in one type of plastic. Your choices may be limited if you want a specific manufacturer or colorway.
Legend Types
There are 4 common ways for legends (the labels on the keycaps) to be produced. These are Doubleshot, Dye-sub, Laser, and Pad print.
TL;DR
Doubleshot or dye-sub are desirable over laser or pad printed (laser and pad printing wear off over time, doubleshot and dye-sub don't). Doubleshot is the most desirable, but is the most restrictive in what can be printed. Dye-sub can be very detailed, but has trouble achieving specific colors, especially light on dark.
Doubleshot is two separate pieces of plastic that are molded together, one for the outer keycap and one for the legend itself. Doubleshot is desirable because the legend can never wear down, as the plastic itself is molded into the shape of the label. A downside of Doubleshot is that it can generally only be 2 colors per cap, as more colors (doing tripleshot) makes the process very expensive. Doubleshot is generally identifiable by the underside of the cap having two types of plastic present, one for the legend and one for the outer cap.
Dye-sub requires a chemical process which stains the surface of the keycap plastic. Dye-sub does not wear off, as the surface itself has been stained. There is also reverse dye-sub which is a more complicated process, allowing light colored legends to be printed on dark colored caps (which is not possible with standard dye-sub processes). Dye-sub can print very complex images with multiple colors and can be used to print on the sides of a cap along with the top. Downside of dye-sub is that often it cannot print lines as crisp as doubleshot and has trouble achieving specific colors as it is dyeing colored plastic into another color. Dye-sub is identifiable due to the surface being stained with the color and not creating any extra surface material.
Laser is a process where the surface of the cap is painted and then the legend is lasered off by a machine, exposing the underlying plastic surface (normally transparent). Laser cap legends can wear out over time, as the outer layer can flake from long term use. You can identify laser legends because the underside will be all one type of plastic. You can normally see the edge of where the outside print ends on the underside and it will generally be an uneven layer.
Pad printed legends are printed onto the keycap itself. Pad printing can wear over time, as long term use will wear off the print on the caps. You can generally identify pad printing because you can feel the legend raised slightly from the surface of the keycap.
Switches
Compatibility (3-pin vs 5-pin)
The first compatibility check when buying switches is the number of pins they have and what kind of PCB your board is. Standard Plate mount (3-pin) switches are the most common, they are seated into a metal plate above the PCB. If your board has a plate above the PCB, you can use 3-pin switches.
PCB mount, or 5-pin switches, have 2 additional plastic nubs that allow the switch to stabilize inside holes of a compatible PCB. The PCB itself needs to have these additional holes in order for these switches to fit.
If you wish to use 5-pin switches on a Plate mount PCB (that doesn't have the extra holes), you can simply trim the plastic nubs (not the metal connecting pins) off with metal clippers (nail clippers work in a pinch). Obviously this is a 1-way mod, and will make the switches no longer PCB mountable, but will be fully functional for Plate mount.
Choosing a Switch
Choosing between switches will almost be entirely personal preference. From type of switch, to use case, to noise level, there are many aspects that go into choosing the perfect switch for you.
We offer switch testers and 10 packs of all our switches to make it easy to test out new variants and see if they are right for your setup.
Clicky, Tactile, Linear
Clicky switches are the closest to that typewriter feel. They give the most feedback (both auditory and tactile) and are great if you've got a separate office or live with someone who doesn't mind the noise. Clicky switches often have a unique feel because of the way they produce their click. This can mean a little more "give" before the switch "snaps" into actuation.
Tactile switches give tactile feedback on each press to physically denote where the key actuates. Once a user is comfortable with the location of the bump, bottoming out is no longer necessary. This can help with reducing noise if you're a light typist. Tactile switches generally have the most tunable aspects for designers, and thus the most variants. The tactile bump can be lighter or more pronounced, and spring weight can greatly change how the tactility feels.
Linear switches are the smoothest switches. They have no feedback on actuation, and thus are better for more experienced typists or those who don’t mind bottoming-out, like gamers. Linear switches are the least prone to “breaking in” or developing long term wear, as they have the least points of friction.
Spring Weight
This is probably the biggest factor in how a switch feels, however it is entirely personal preference. A heavy switch for one person might be too light for another and vice versa. The best way to get a feel for this is to simply try out a bunch of different switches. Unfortunately keyboard meetups aren’t as common as they were pre-covid, but switch testers and buying sample quantities should help determine the best setup for you.
Personally, as a musician I started my journey searching for heavier and heavier tactile switches with distinct tactility, but over the years found that my favorite switches are actually light spring linears. -Zurry
Switch Lube
Lube is an optional improvement that will make your switches more consistent and smooth. It helps to reduce chattering and clatter between the movement of stem and the body, and can overall improve the feel of your board.
The downside is that it requires manually disassembling and reassembling each switch. This can be helped with a switch opener and proper tools, but simply takes a lot of time. Using a fine-tipped brush, apply the lubricant to the spring, stem, and inside housing of the switch (all the internal places that friction happens).
GP105 is the general standard for switch spring lubrication.
Stabilizers
Most keyboards come with their own stock stabilizers, found framing the longer keys like Spacebar, Shift, Backspace, and Enter.
Upgrading your stabilizers is an inexpensive and easy way to enhance the smoothness and reduce the noise of some of your most used keys.
PCB / Plate Mounting (Screw-in vs Snap-in Stabilizers)
There are two types of stabilizer mounting, for PCB and Plate, similar to switches. When upgrading stabilizers it’s important to keep in mind what kind your board supports.
PCB mounted stabilizers are called “screw-in” stabilizers and screw directly into the PCB. They will have screw slots, so will visually look distinct. Plate mount stabilizers are called “snap-in” stabilizers and snap into the plate (generally from underneath). Some stabilizers are compatible with both mounting methods (like the Kono Midnight Stabilizers).
Stabilizer Lube
Lubing even just your stock stabilizers can be a big upgrade for your keyboard. This will reduce the “floppiness” and “clackyness” of your stabilizer keys and can greatly reduce the noise of your board. To properly lube stabilizers, you need to disassemble and lubricate the stems, housing, and the ends of the metal bar connected to the stabilizer housing.
GP205 G0 is the standard for stabilizer lubrication due to its thicker viscosity. I personally have used Super Lube-21030 for stabilizers to great effect.
Accessories
Cable
Check your board’s connector to make sure you’re buying the right kind of cable. However, most modern boards should be using USB-C at this point.
Aviator cables reduce wear on ports for valuable boards, by letting you swap the cable from the middle. There are different connectors for Aviator cables, depending on the type of release and size. You can check out our GX16 Aviator cables as an example.
Deskmat
A deskmat can be a nice addition to a keyboard setup, as it enhances keyboard and desk acoustics greatly. If your desk resonates while typing, consider a deskmat to create a dampening layer. It also creates a bit of give between your board and the desk, softening some of the impact that your fingers feel when bottoming out.
Reducing Noise
Clicky switches will obviously be the most noisy, however a lot of the noise from mechanical keyboards comes from the board and keycaps themselves. Even a Linear board can be very noisy with heavy typing, as bottoming-out will still cause the board and keycaps to resonate.
Silent switches, lubricating stabilizers, a deskmat, and o-rings are common first-steps to getting less noise out of your setup. You can look into advanced dampening techniques, such as adding foam padding to the inside of your board, if you require even more noise reduction.
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/keycap-buying-guide2020-09-17T10:44:06-07:002021-05-14T11:54:47-07:00Keycap Compatibility and Purchase Guide - How to Find Keycaps That Fit Your KeyboardAlec DeVries & Andrew LekashmanMore]]>
Keycaps are available in a bewildering array of colors and shapes. It’s easy to get lost in keyboard community projects due to complex product pages and nonstandard layouts. We’re here to help — it’s time for keycap fundamentals.
You’ll be a confident shopper after some light DIY research, help from the mechanical keyboard community, and this guide. So... What keycaps fit my keyboard?
Find keycaps that fit and join a group buy with these steps:
Identify your keyboard layout and any nonstandard keycap sizes
Inspect your switches and their stem / mount compatibility
Ensure kit coverage and keycap shape (row profile) across each row of keys
Check site FAQs, product information, and group buy / pre-order timelines
Select kits and complete checkout
Follow along with updates + tracking; inspect products when they arrive
Learn expert tips on keycap cleaning, troubleshooting, and usage
Identify Your Keyboard Layout and Nonstandard Key Sizes, If Any
Google your keyboard model + layout (ex. Kira mechanical keyboard layout) or model + nonstandard keys. Prioritize results from the keyboard manufacturer, Reddit, Geekhack, Keebtalk, and Deskthority. At least one of those sources should list nonstandard key sizes and general coverage advice. We’ll provide specifics, but wanted to offer a simple solution before making you learn a bunch.
If you’re not ready for a deep dive, it’s OK. Community projects have separate pages for announcements, questions, and feedback. You can visit those group buy pages (via links on Kono product pages under the details heading or directly) to ask about coverage for your keyboard. You might even see a reply from the set designer!
That said, you should know how keycaps are measured. Manufacturers and designers use “units” to determine keycap size. 1u is typically the horizontal width of an alpha key, like H or Up. Standard spacebars are 6.25u or 6.25 H keys lined up in a row.
General layout knowledge is important too. There are two major regional quirks and three broad layout categories. The USA uses ANSI layouts, which have a horizontal enter key and a longer left shift. Europe primarily uses ISO layouts. Other standards exist throughout Asia.
Keyboard form factors such as Standard, TKL (TenKeyLess), and sub-TKL aren’t tied to a region. The classifications refer to size and included keys, whereas ANSI and ISO layouts only affect the central alpha keys. Standard keyboards follow a pattern laid out by IBM; they include a numeric keypad and use the same 1.25u size for bottom row modifier keys like Ctrl / Alt / Win.
Tenkeyless keyboards delete the Standard numpad to save space. TKLs (like the IBM SSK) popularized small keyboards among enthusiasts, which drove sizes down even more. Sub-TKL layouts are typically described as a key-percentage versus standard layouts, which have 104-108 keys. 60% keyboard layouts tend to have between 60 and 65 keys, for example.
Switches and Stem / Mount Compatibility
Nearly all modern keycap sets are designed for Cherry MX-style switch stems; it’s an industry standard used by tons of manufacturers (like Kailh and Gateron). Adapters for nonstandard stems, like Alps, are intermittently available via the community. Low profile switches like Kailh Choc will not accept standard MX-stem keycaps.
You can remove a keycap to check for their characteristic + shape. If you’re unsure, you can send a switch stem picture to support@kono.store. Our team will give a yea or nay on MX compatibility.
Keycap Coverage and Rows
Once you know your layout and compatibility, start shopping! Navigate to a keycap product page and reference its labeled kit pictures. Most of them will be computer generated images. This is standard for keycap group buys because the caps still need to be manufactured.
Note: PBT and ABS are the most common keycap plastics. PBT is better at resisting damage from the sun and "shine" from fingertip wear. ABS is traditional, easier to injection mold (doubleshot), and widely available. You can learn more about keycap characteristics in our upcoming Cherry MX Compatible Keycap Guide.
Most base kits will cover a standard keyboard, but some keysets require one TKL kit plus a numeric keypad kit for that purpose. Standard keyboards rarely face coverage difficulties. Sub-TKL keyboards are a different story.
Now that you’ve accounted for keycap coverage, you’ll need to make sure that each row of keys has the same angle / shape. If you’re purchasing a uniform profile (DSA, SA R3, XDA) — in which all keys have the same height and angle — this might be a non-issue. Sculpted profiles like SA and Cherry put a slight tilt on each horizontal row of keys to increase comfort, so you can’t mix around key locations as freely. Renders will show this as R1, R2, etc.
Once you’ve compared keycap sets and confirmed kit fitment, it’s time for due diligence.
Check Site FAQs and Product Timelines
Kono primarily offers group buys and pre-orders for custom products. Payment is up front because we use group buy proceeds for production. Purchasing directly from the manufacturer involves some waiting — keycaps take at least 3 months to complete and some may take a bit longer.
Each group buy product will show an estimated production schedule, typically at the top of its product page. When a group buy closes, our weekly progress update page enters the picture. It’s best to check there for current information. Manufacturer updates arrive intermittently, so statuses may be the same for long stretches of time (depending on the company and assembly line progress).
Select Kits and Complete Checkout
Kit names match labeled images on each product page. Selecting an image doesn’t automatically select the kit you want. Instead, make sure that your desired kit is selected near the join group buy / pre-order / add to cart button. Once that’s done, click the blue button to add your item.
Occasionally, we see supporters purchase several kits from the same group buy in different orders. This can ramp up shipping costs quickly. You can avoid that by making sure all desired kits are in your cart — then refreshing the cart page once to confirm — before completing checkout. Your order will not ship until all of its line items are in stock at our US warehouse. We don’t recommend mixing keycap group buy orders with one another or in-stock items; delivery for an in-stock item could be delayed for months.
Track and Inspect Your Product
Please check your spam and promotional email folders, as some Kono messages may be sorted to those locations. Tracking awareness is critical for supporters outside the USA; customs fees and taxes may be due upon arrival. You should also track international USPS parcels in your national postal system (same tracking code), as national systems rarely sync.
Supporters within the USA should keep an eye on tracking updates. This reduces package theft, helps with mail claims, and (if you purchase shipping insurance) enables timely Route cases. Please read your credit card agreement — most providers offer online order protection, including package theft / loss insurance.
Finally, inspect each item upon arrival. Most keycap manufacturers complete quality control and keycap packing / sorting (into plastic trays) by hand. That means even the most expensive keycap sets can have duplicates or misprints — much like other bespoke products.
Please contact support@kono.store for assistance (it might take some time for us to reply). If we don’t have your keycap on hand as a spare, it will take 2-5 weeks for us to dispatch a replacement. We try to make bulk replacement part requests from manufacturers — single-item shipments tend to annoy our contacts.
Keycap Pro Tips
Don’t leave ABS plastic keycaps in direct sunlight — they might yellow over time. PBT plastic keycaps are more resistant to wear and yellowing.
Wash and sterilize your keycaps using denture tablets. Make sure to rinse and dry your keycaps after they soak, otherwise they’ll look chalky. Water tends to hide in the + shaped mount — tap it out if necessary.
Reduce keyboard noise by greasing your stabilizers. Complicated greasing methods are common in the community, but they offer diminishing returns. Search for a method that matches your skill level.
Is a key loose? Add tiny slivers of tape or plastic wrap between your stabilizer / switch stems and keycaps. The additional pressure should keep troublesome keys in place.
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/what-is-keyboard-hotswap2019-11-06T14:16:00-08:002021-05-14T11:58:45-07:00What Is a Hotswap Mechanical Keyboard?Alec DeVries & Andrew LekashmanMore]]>
Hotswap = changing switches without soldering
Hotswap (also hot-swap or hot swap) is an acclaimed feature that Kono Store and Input Club adopted early. It describes keyboards that allow switch replacement without soldering. Kaihua (Kailh), a premier switch manufacturer in China, created the market-dominating hotswap socket design pictured below.
How can that get confusing?
Many sites say that hotswap keyboards have “hotswap switches,” which is rarely the case and can cause mild confusion. Switches from Cherry MX-style hotswap keyboards are usable in keyboards with the same hotswap socket pinout / plate design, but they were not specifically designed for hot-swap usage. Those switches can even be soldered into a regular keyboard. The real innovation resides on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) or, if there are actual hotswap switches like our contactless SILO / Keystone line, in the underlying technology.
What are the benefits?
Hotswap keyboards are preferred by typists and quality-oriented manufacturers. They make switch repairs easy (resulting in longer keyboard lifetime) and allow for personalization, but those are just the base benefits. The ease of installation also makes smaller production runs possible — manufacturers can install exotic switches with a lower MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity), dodging big automation costs.
If a keyboard doesn’t have those hotswap sockets, its modification options are very limited. In standard keyboards you must solder and / or add Holtite sockets to change switches. Holtites aren’t super reliable and can only handle a few switch changes. Those issues disappear with better hotswap socket designs like Kaihua’s.
Why are so few hotswap keyboards available?
The most important reason is profit reduction — both long and short term. Hotswap sockets cost a little bit more per keyboard. Most mass market keyboards are incredibly cheap to make, and produced in batches of several thousand or more, so companies don’t like the added cost eating into their profit. They also make repairs very easy; when switches wear out people are much less likely to buy a new keyboard instead of doing the repair themselves.
Hotswap sockets also require some engineering expertise to implement. They take up extra room on the PCB so component placement and routing must be precise. This limits international layout support at the PCB level, especially if a keyboard has LEDs. If you want a European enter key or split space bar for a hotswap keyboard, separate PCB designs are usually necessary. Keyboards like the Minivan, which is no longer available, achieve partial all-in-one success by reducing LED functionality.
Do you need a hotswap keyboard?
If you know how to solder and have an absolute favorite keyboard switch, hotswap might not be necessary for you (even if it does offer quality of life improvements). For people who like easy repairs and variety, however, hotswap keyboards are unbeatable. It’s hard to justify making anything other than a hotswap keyboard as a premium keyboard manufacturer; expect to see more and more mechanical keyboards with hotswap options on the market over the next year or two.
Input Club's upcoming Keystone Analog Keyboard also offers hot-swap design, but is not compatible with Cherry-style switches as it is designed with a new architecture for analog input.
First, I’ll get the important questions out of the way for mechanical keyboard enthusiasts who are familiar with Beam Spring switches.
Specs
Beam Spring click mechanism
Hall Effect sensing (Over a billion press lifespan)
Cherry MX-mount stems (engineered to be safe for all keycap brands)
Plate — 14mm x 14mm square cutout
SMD LED support (Dual LED support possible)
Dust Resistant Housing
Contactless PCB Mounting
Unfortunately, Silo switches are not compatible with Cherry MX-style PCBs. I’ll explain more below — hopefully the invention contactless sensing makes up for having to buy a new keyboard.
What is a Beam Spring Switch?
Way back in the early 1970s, IBM needed a more configurable replacement for the Selectric keyboard. At the time, Selectrics were often used as “mechanical” keyboards for some computers and terminals:
(IBM Mag Card II)
(Datel 30 Terminal)
Using a Selectric as a keyboard is rather cumbersome compared to discrete switches, but what about that “Selectric Feel”? This is rather difficult as the Selectric uses an active mechanism known as a whiffletree (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Selectric.ogv) to achieve its legendary tactility. It’s also the reason that Selectric keys don’t work at all unless the typewriter is powered on.
A beam spring is a strip of sheet metal held under tension at two ends, forming a slight bow. When exerting force downwards into the bow, the beam will push out the tension points on either side until there is enough tension force to buckle the beam in the other direction. This buckle is what creates that pleasant tactile feel and sharp audible feedback. On the rebound, a coil spring resets the beam spring to its unbuckled condition.
Beam Spring keyboards have always held a special status within the keyboard community. Their remarkable clicks, retro aesthetics, amazingly thick keycaps, and build quality (costing thousands of dollars when new) are a throwback to an era before planned obsolescence. Extreme rarity and incompatibility with modern computers, unless extensive DIY restoration mods are performed, makes owning an original a point of pride for collectors. Most importantly, Beam Spring keyboards are near-universally praised for their feel. This is mostly due to their Selectric-inspired performance, offering an experience unlike any other switch mechanism.
There are two key force properties that define a beam spring switch.
The first - Force increases, but tapers off similar to a parabolic force curve.
The second - Once the force is no longer increasing (maximum resistance of the beam) the force is suddenly inverted and any stored energy is released (partially in the form of sound). This results in a sudden force falloff during the press, providing a characteristically sharp but natural feeling tactile event.
When pressing a generic linear switch (Kailh Red) you anticipate that pressing harder will result in more movement. This does not provide any activation-related feedback for typists, requiring you to observe a result on your screen for confirmation. Standard tactile switches (Kailh Brown) also have an unnatural-feeling force distribution, though they do offer tangible feedback. Most tactile switches use rapidly increasing obstructive force to create a tactile event, which will essentially jam a key into your fingertips. This can sometimes obscure resulting force decreases that would otherwise contribute to good switch feel. It also requires the use of additional tactile leaves or elements, which cause unwanted friction — reducing smoothness.
Beam Springs help the press feel softer and more refined by using a tactile force dropoff. As the force is decreasing at the tactile event, rather than increasing, the switch will seem easier to press. We paired this natural feel with our signature bottom-out resistant ramp at the end of the press to offer the best of parabolic and linear force curves. No tactile leaf is necessary in this design, so smoothness is increased.
Plus it’s impossible to forget about that click! Beam springs are known for being exceptionally distinctive and satisfying. Here’s a comparison sound test of 4 different switches (in order): Kailh BOX White, Silo Beam, Kailh Blue, Kailh BOX Navy
Silo switches are the culmination of two different projects Input Club has been working on for a number of years. The first, designing an analog Hall Effect keyboard switch. The second, how to modernize a Beam Spring switch and mold it into Cherry MX-like dimensions.
I’ll be writing another article solely on analog switches in the near future, so stay tuned by joining the mailing list for these projects - Keystone Mechanical Keyboard Waitlist!
Compacting a Beam Spring mechanism into something similar to a Cherry MX switch has a lot of challenges.
First, IBM Beam Spring switches are huge by modern switch standards. By making the switch tall IBM was able to stack two different springs (coil spring and a beam spring) and allow room for the capacitive fly plate to move up and down. The activation mechanism is attached directly to the tactile/click mechanism — reliability increases as a result. As a counterpoint, Kailh BOX White switches may not have their click aligned to switch activation, as the click bar has nothing to do with the contact leaf that turns the switch on and off. Contact switches also lack an adjustable activation point, which creates limitations for typists with different preferences.
For Silo switches, the click has been separated from the sensing technique as well (magnetic sensing). Unlike contact-based switches, however, Silo switches have adjustable activation and deactivation points via their Hall Effect sensor field strength data (magnet distance from sensor). This means you’re not limited to a set position when riding the activation point. Using the linked graph for the Beam Spring Prototype as an example (Beam Spring Graph), if activation was set at 2.2 mm and deactivation at 0.8 mm you would have to press / release 1.4 mm x 2 = 2.8 mm to do a double tap. This creates significant flexibility for typists vs. a contact switch — which is stuck at a single activation point that may not match your typing style. Contactless sensing also eliminates contact leaves, resulting in more room for a beam spring and its resulting clicky goodness.
Next — keycaps! In our opinion, Cherry MX keycap mounts aren’t an optimal design. They are the keycap standard, though, so we’re working around them in our projects so you can keep using fancy keycap sets with our keyboards. The main challenge of integrating a beam spring switch is actually having enough room to place the beam and tensioner somewhere inside the confines of a Cherry MX-sized housing. The keycap mount plays a role in this, as it must fit inside the switch when pressed.
When designing keyboards, It’s impossible to forget the most important feature of any modern keyboard: backlit RGB LEDs. Joking aside, any modern switch that doesn’t consider backlighting isn’t a complete work. I became a keyboard enthusiast and designer (specifically while learning Colemak) because I was frustrated that I couldn’t type well in the dark. Silo switches will support dual LEDs (North and South orientation). Silo switches will also support switch rotation (180 degrees), so this was doubly necessary. If you’re one of those people with absurdly thick keycaps (which can impact switch housings in certain orientations) you’ll be able to hotswap-rotate your switches any which way you’d like (the pictured prototype doesn’t have this feature yet, but we should have the next round of samples soon).
Why can’t I use these on my existing board?
Standard MX type keyswitches are either soldered or socketed into keyboards. More specifically, they are contact based, and the contact mechanism is intrinsically tied to the feel of the keyswitch. As part of us wanting to improve on existing technology, the Silo switches are contactless, using Hall Effect sensors that require entirely different circuit board designs.
There are a couple of advantages to this approach:
All clicky and tactile mechanisms are decoupled from the activation point. This magnetic analog system allows you to customize activation points.
Linear mechanisms are extremely simple, and they do not need physical contacts like MX-type switches. This results in an extra smooth feel due to reduced surface friction.
Contacts, being mechanical in nature, will eventually be subject to certain types of failures. Oxidation, stress cracking, and friction-related wear are a few examples. Hall Effect sensing, on the other hand, has been rated into billions of actuations (Honeywell Hall Effect Design Manual) for linear switches due to their contactless design.
Swapping switches is extremely simple, and can be done any number of times. For contact based switches, there’s either tedious desoldering/resoldering involved, or usage of sockets. While sockets were a major improvement on the status quo, they would eventually fail if someone tried to swap switches hundreds of times.
The end result? A switch that is fundamentally incompatible with existing keyboards.
Where can I get them!?
The first mechanical keyboard showcasing Silo Beam switches will be the Input Club Keystone. It will also offer tactile (Silo Command) and linear (Silo Control) variants. More details about Command and Control switches will be available in the future.
PCB and firmware design will be our task for the next few months. Analog Hall Effect sensing is a groundbreaking concept, so it will take our team some time to design a home for these switches. It will also take other companies (and us) time to iterate on the design and create Silo-compatible keyboards in smaller form factors.
If you really want to try Beam Spring switches right now, it might be somewhat tricky. Beam Spring keyboards are hard to find, very expensive, always used (your keyfeel won’t necessarily reflect the NOS curve above), and typically in need of significant refurbishment. They require a custom after-market keyboard controller and possibly a new PCB as well (xwhatsit https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=58138.0 or Common Sense (https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=13988) to use with USB. Most Beam Spring keyboards have odd keyboard layouts not really designed for modern computing, and weigh something like a couple of bricks. Your best bet may be to head to a local keyboard meetup — someone may have one you can try.
Please join the Waitlist for the Input Club Keystone Keyboard
Input Club and Kono rely on your support in order to work on super cool projects like these. This is something that I thought was pretty much impossible from a manufacturing perspective even a couple years ago. I’m super thankful for your support!
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/the-future-of-keyboards2019-03-26T18:15:00-07:002019-04-04T00:50:36-07:00The Future of KeyboardsAndrew LekashmanMore]]>
What should the future of keyboards look like?
What should the future of keyboards look like?
Computers embody our future. Until recently, technology was slow enough to bottleneck users. That’s no longer the case. Developments in computing power, mobility, and storage speed easily drove the industry forward, resulting in faster machines for decades. Now we’re held back by a lack of human input device innovation — primarily in the field of keyboards.
A Downhill Journey
Keyboards regressed in quality over the last 30 years. Cost cutting and planned obsolescence were the main motivators for its decline, which sacrificed user experience in exchange for profit margins. Keyboards were essentially feature-stagnant, excluding mobile touchscreens and decorative lighting for gamers. Any developments in the mainstream market made keyboards thinner, a decision based on aesthetics and material cost rather than functionality.
Ultra-thin and cheaply constructed keyboards or touchscreens are bearable in some mobile applications, for light work or quick texts, but they fall short during demanding activities. Their limited tactile feedback and compact size result in a burdensome work environment. Flat surfaces like touchscreens are simply better for media consumption than creation.
This is compounded by gut-level knowledge that using a keyboard is much better for certain tasks. People are accustomed to full-travel tactile buttons on tools and musical instruments, and they have been for millennia. Multitasking is also harmed when a screen is resized or partially covered by a keyboard. If keeping your eye on the ball is a priority, touchscreen keyboards are a guaranteed loss.
Frequent desktop activities such as word processing, gaming, and media editing require a full keyboard for optimal performance. Standard mechanical keyboards are an improvement over disposable rubber domes, but a majority still have severe shortcomings — mostly involving versatility and durability. Input Club, a tech-driven keyboard startup, designed a futuristic keyboard to modernize your computing experience and overcome existing limitations.
Meet The Keystone Analog Mechanical Keyboard
The Keystone is expected to provide dramatic long term effects for both productivity and time savings, whether you’re working to hit a deadline or grinding levels in a game. The motivation is obvious — everyone types. Input Club’s new analog switch technology will enable unparalleled macro options and accurate, minute adjustments that would otherwise cost you seconds to perform. Multiplied across thousands of presses a day, every day, the advantage is significant. Saving just 10 minutes per day gives back nearly 8 full days of work by the end of the year — that’s a great metric for management if you need a reason for a new keyboard! Keystone-pioneered features and switches may be in most, if not all, high performance keyboards within the next 5 years due to those performance and efficiency improvements.
Emergent Tech and Features
The Keystone approaches performance, efficiency, and productivity in a revolutionary new way with its Analog Silo switches. Each key determines far and fast it is pressed via magnetic Hall Effect sensors. Input Club uses this data for a special mode that adapts to your typing style, increasing accuracy — an industry first. In addition, multiple macros can be assigned to each key. Holding the key down halfway, or all the way, could output an uppercase letter or a string of commands. This will be particularly useful when computer-based autocomplete becomes popular in the near future, as you won’t need to leave the home row (indicated by bumps on the F and J keys) to select a suggested word.
The Keystone is not limited to letters and keyboard commands. Each key can be assigned to analog control “languages” (APIs) that different applications understand. Think of each Silo switch like a gas pedal or a dimmable light slider in this configuration. Single-key digital brush size adjustment in real time is a possibility. MIDI control for audio professionals, CAD control for engineers, and analog stick-like video game controls will all be accessible with the correct API integrations. The options for productivity and gaming are endless.
Analog Sensing Technology
All Input Club projects operate on Open Source firmware. This allows individuals and companies to customize their devices to suit specific needs. Security, integrity, and flexibility are all vital as the world is digitized. Open Source firmware also allows for regular feature updates and full customization, which isn’t always the case with proprietary software-based control utilities.
Planned obsolescence is also a worthy enemy. With phone manufacturers pushing new models on a yearly basis, and somehow expecting consumers to toss hundreds or thousands of dollars at a new pocket-sized computer each cycle, it is refreshing to design something that can last near-indefinitely. Adapting to a new phone or desktop keyboard takes time. Hall Effect-based Silo switches and their hot-swap capabilities virtually eliminate the need to acclimate each time you get a new computer, as you won’t need a new keyboard.
Finally, contactless hot-swap switches and friendly support are a major platform for improving keyboards. When you buy a product, you should be able to fix it. Especially if it’s going to last.
What Input Club Didn’t Change
Qwerty remains the standard layout for the Keystone. Even so, there are still a few things that Input Club intends to explore with mass-market mechanical keyboards. The easiest efficiency gains would come from alternate layouts, like Colemak or Workman. Qwerty simply has so much momentum that it would take something absurd — like a government mandate — to change.
Mechanical switches and other features commonly found in enthusiast keyboards are vital to The Keystone. Key separation and tactility, or the high-quality bump that you feel when you press a key, help differentiate mechanical keyboards from rubber dome models. Sculpted keycaps also make a huge difference, as they allow for easier touch typing; keeping your eyes on the screen is critical for focus and multitasking.
Pursuing the Ultimate Keyboard
It’s quite likely that you’re questing for the ultimate keyboard. The concept of “endgame” is a shared cultural fantasy — an idea that is forever out of reach. Endgame means different things based on your preferences. Ergonomic twists, edgy flourishes, and odd form factors are often demanded in enthusiast circles.
The Keystone is designed for more than a few forums and niche e-commerce sites. It’s intended to be a new tech platform for all keyboard users. Recognizable keyboard elements like its full-size form factor and Qwerty layout are vital to ensure widespread adoption. This is true for any new concept; fantastic projects of all sorts have failed before because they didn’t recognize and incorporate important norms.
Input Club chose to make The Keystone accessible outside the keyboard community for one reason and one reason only: a desire to share. The big forums vigorously pursue a better computing experience. Many of their members would love to pass along typing bliss to the rest of the world, but they don’t always have opportunities to do so.
The Keystone may not be your endgame keyboard, but it will introduce the endgame keyboard technology - Hall Effect Analog Silo switches. It is also the keyboard community’s best shot at changing the future of input. Join Input Club’s waitlist on Kono Store if you would like to track the project.
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/2018-bay-area-mechanical-keyboard-meetup2018-11-12T16:47:00-08:002019-03-25T23:15:15-07:002018 Bay Area Mechanical Keyboard MeetupAndrew Lekashman
If you’re curious about mechanical keyboards - the perfect way to dive deep into the community is to join a meetup. Mechanical keyboards are a very tactile product - best experienced in person where you can try typing on one that catches your eye.
If you’re curious about mechanical keyboards - the perfect way to dive deep into the community is to join a meetup. Mechanical keyboards are a very tactile product - best experienced in person where you can try typing on one that catches your eye. This past weekend marked the 2018 Bay Area Mechanical Keyboard Meetup - a gathering of enthusiasts, vendors, and newcomers to the vibrant and welcoming mechanical keyboard community. Over 350 people and 20+ vendors and sponsors attended the event - held in downtown San Jose, CA.
Recent Meetup Growth
These meetups have grown and expanded over the years - in 2015 the Bay Area meetup was about 20 people sitting in a room with a few keyboards and the occasional technical presentations. Today we regularly see hundreds of people, nearly $5,000 in giveaway prizes, and prominent designers flying from around the world to showcase their work. New mechanical keyboard designs are premiered at the event - from mainstream keyboards like the Gemini Dusk by Hexgears to new low profile hybrid prototypes from OLKB / QMK team members.
Community Evolution
The community has evolved over the past few years - but some of the best things about it have remained the same. Overall - the mechanical keyboard community is one of the most positive and accepting online communities - with /r/mechanicalkeyboards regularly appearing in the top 25 list of most welcoming reddits (Source: http://opfeels.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/). New keyboard communities like Keebtalk have even popped up during 2018 - to provide a better forum for online discussion that is directly managed by a non-profit community board.
Keyboard People Make the Community
The positivity and huge online activity make sense when you think about it - people that like mechanical keyboards naturally also enjoy the act of typing. Mechanical keyboards at their core are a delightful experience, they help transform the bland and irritating activity of typing on a rubber keyboard into a sensory event for your fingers. Keyboards are the gateway into the internet for many people, and the difference between having a keyboard that you actually like using everyday can be astounding.
Your Keyboard Tastes
Choosing the right keyboard has always been a difficult undertaking however - people have different tastes, aesthetic ideals, as well as varying physical attributes. The standard keyboard layout is a fairly rigid rectangle - a design decision that fits certain body frames and finger sizes well and others - less so. People with smaller fingers may prefer a lighter switch, professional typists like programmers often gravitate toward ergonomic designs, and some people just like to try new things. Whatever the reason - discovering what you like is made much easier by trying everything out in person.
Conclusion
The future of mechanical keyboards is bright and it is not just because the products are getting better. The number of people who really enjoy mechanical keyboards is growing and the community behind it is the driving force behind everything. It’s amazing to be a part of this all - and thank you to everyone who showed up to make this sort of event possible. Hope to see you next year :)
<3
The team at Kono
Interested in future meetups? Join our interest list for Keyboard Meetups.
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/commonly-asked-mechanical-keyboard-questions2018-10-18T17:23:00-07:002019-03-25T23:14:35-07:00Commonly Asked Mechanical Keyboard QuestionsAndrew Lekashman
At Kono Store - we love mechanical keyboards. We work closely with keyboard engineering labs like Input Club and keyboard designers around the world. One of our founding members - Jacob Alexander (HaaTa) has the world’s most extensive collection of historical keyboards and frequently gives talks about the future of human computer interaction.
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At Kono Store - we love mechanical keyboards. We work closely with keyboard engineering labs like Input Club and keyboard designers around the world. One of our founding members - Jacob Alexander (HaaTa) has the world’s most extensive collection of historical keyboards and frequently gives talks about the future of human computer interaction.
In light of this expertise - we have assembled this large list of commonly asked questions about mechanical keyboards - all answered by our team of keyboard designers, engineers, and support team.
What is a mechanical keyboard?
Keyboards that use a mechanical switch under each key are known as mechanical keyboards. There are a wide variety of mechanical switch designs that offer a distinctive feel or sound when pressed, generally identified by the color of the switch itself. Mechanical keyboards are preferred over less expensive “rubber dome” keyboards due to their longer lifespan, customization options, and increased performance in gaming and typing.
Are mechanical keyboards loud?
Not all mechanical keyboards are loud - though the especially clicky IBM Model M certainly helped to develop the noisy reputation. The most popular switch option for a mechanical keyboard is typically a quiet tactile variant - typically a Brown switch. Many factors in mechanical keyboard design can contribute to its overall noise - with steel plates and heavy keycaps often contributing quite a bit.
Which mechanical keyboard is best for gaming?
There is a commonly repeated myth that Linear mechanical (MX Red) switches are suited for gaming.This may stem from a misunderstanding about how switches actuate and an honest guess that less friction might allow for faster presses. In practice - most switches actuate roughly halfway down a keypress and being able to consistently hover and hold above the actuation point will result in better gaming performance. Special Speed switches that are similar to a hair trigger have been developed by Kaihua to actuate earlier and faster than other switches.
Are mechanical keyboards good for typing?
Mechanical keyboards are much better for typing than average keyboards as they do not require you to “bottom out” or press all the way down. Bottoming out results in the application of unnecessary stress on your joints and fingers. Mechanical keyboards typically only require a key to be pressed halfway to send a signal to your computer, allowing for quicker and easier typing.
Do laptops have mechanical keyboards?
Some laptops offer a low-travel mechanical switch using a “Butterfly” mechanism. These switches are technically mechanical - however, most of the advantages provided in a standard mechanical keyboard are lost. Certain gaming brands have released fully mechanical laptop options - but there is more innovation needed before this is a standard option.
Which Cherry MX switch is best for gaming?
Cherry MX offers one variety of Speed switch - Cherry MX Speed Silver Mechanical Switches. These are a linear option with a shorter actuation and are specifically designed for rapid keypresses. For more variety in Speed switches - Kaihua also produces four varieties - Gold, Bronze, Copper, and Silver (Available at Novelkeys). Switches produced by keyboard enthusiast brand ZealPC are also excellent for gaming due to their extremely smooth tactility.
Do mechanical keyboards last longer?
Cherry MX Mechanical switches are typically rated for 50 million keypresses, which under heavy use can last between 10 and 15 years. The average rubber dome keyboard is rated for around 5 million keypresses, which can last for one to two years under heavy use. Large keyboard companies like Logitech, Razer, and Kaihua have released mechanical switches that can last more than 80 million presses. Older, vintage keyboards that make use of Hall Effect technology can be rated for many 1 billion keypresses.
Which mechanical keyboard switch is best?
Certain design features can make a mechanical keyboard switch bad, but in practice no single switch variety is best. Human finger size and muscle density is incredibly variable, as are preferences for how firm or soft a keypress “should” be. Read below for a list of keyswitch manufacturers and designers that are producing quality products.
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/best-cherry-switch2018-08-20T12:55:00-07:002019-03-25T23:14:00-07:00What Is The Best Cherry MX Compatible Switch?Alec DeVries
The best Cherry MX switch for gaming, typing, or any given task is the one that you prefer. That may seem like a silly answer, but we promise it isn’t. Keep reading this page to find the best mechanical keyboard switch for your needs -- not someone else’s opinion about what you should use.
Random people on the internet will pass along all sorts of advice about the best Cherry MX switch for a given task. Some of them are knowledgeable, but none of them have your fingers or exact typing preferences. Our team of enthusiasts and engineers will help you develop your own opinion and act on it. We’ll also list some of our favorite switches (sorted by type) at the end of this article.
Cherry MX Switches Aren't The Only Good Option
Cherry MX switches aren’t alone in the market. Objectively competitive alternatives from Kaihua (Kailh) and Gateron went mainstream in the past few years. In fact, our measurements show competing switches outperforming Cherry MX models in a number of ways. Cherry makes solid switches, to be clear, so there’s nothing wrong with buying into their brand.
How To Choose A Mechanical Keyboard Switch
Choosing the right switch for your needs doesn’t need to be complicated. You can pick the best switch for your needs by following the steps below:
Identify What You Like
Pay attention to your keyboard use for a day (or less -- we won’t judge). Answer the following questions:
Do you like clicky noises? (Consider your coworkers / family too.)
Do you like feeling a "bump" while you're pressing down a key?
Do you like pressing keys all the way down?
Mechanical keyboard switches fall into three categories: linear, tactile, and tactile clicky. Compare the following table with your answers to bullet one and bullet two. The column that best fits your answers is the switch type you should try first.
Linear
Tactile
Tactile Clicky
Noise
Minimal
Minimal
Loud
Bump
No
Yes
Yes
Certain switches are tougher to press down all the way, or bottom out. Typists who want to avoid bottom out may want switches with special springs (like Hako Trues and Clears) and / or stronger springs. Most common Cherry switches fall into a light resistance range that encourages bottom out. There are also a few special switch models with features like early activation points and sound reducing pads. You can learn more about individual switches and their weight ratings by viewing the Input Club Comparative Switch Guide.
View the switch list at the bottom of this page to see some of our favorite options.
Try Switches And Buy A Switch Tester
Once you pick an interesting switch type, you should try it out. Here are the best ways to go about it:
Try Them In A Full Keyboard
It’s best to try switches in a full keyboard. Some stores, like Fry’s Electronics, have keyboard samples out. You can also meet with keyboard forum members, go to keyboard meetups, and try out mechanical keyboards that belong to people you know.
Buy A Switch Tester
Kono switch testers provide a solid base, translucent keycaps, and a variety of switches. They’re an excellent way to get a general feel for your likes and dislikes. It can be hard to get a good read on individual switches, though. They aren’t soldered in or exposed to your typing style, so a full keyboard could feel very different. If the Kono Switch Tester doesn't have the options you want we recommend buying one from NovelKeys, as they offer immense variety and customization.
Buy Multiple Keyboards / Keypads And Gift / Resell The Ones You Don't Like
If you have lots disposable income, buying multiple keyboards is an option. Mech enthusiasts tend to collect a stable of keyboards, which make great collectibles and gifts. Resale is also common on keyboard forums.
Find And Buy The Best Mechanical Keyboard For Your Needs
A standard full size keyboard or tenkeyless compact model is fine for most people, but those options may not fit your typing style perfectly. Read our “How to Choose a Mechanical Keyboard” page (once it's published) to learn more.
Cherry MX Switches And Some Alternatives
Linear - Light - Cherry MX Red
Cherry MX Red switches are the marketplace standard for light linear switches. Learn more at this link.
Box Navy switches use an improved slider and a revolutionary extra-thick click bar mechanism. They are extremely tactile. Learn more at this link.
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https://kono.store/blogs/keyboards/hexgears-x1-apple-magic-comparison2018-07-11T12:01:00-07:002019-03-25T23:14:11-07:00Better Than an Apple Magic Keyboard?!?Kono Store
This is the keyboard Apple should be making.
The X-1 is an ultra-thin high performance mechanical keyboard. Its sleek design comes with a solid aircraft grade aluminum case, state of the art RGB backlighting, and multi-device Bluetooth connection. The Hexgears X-1 is the perfect option for those looking for an upgrade without breaking the bank, with uncompromising performance and style.
Apple Magic Keyboard
Hexgears X-1 Mechanical Keyboard
Price
$99.99
$99
Compatible Operating Systems
Compatible with Mac and iOS*
Compatible with Mac, iOS, Windows, Android, and Linux
Compact Size
✅
✅
Aluminum Construction
✅
✅
Low Profile Keycaps
✅
✅
Bluetooth/Wireless
✅
✅
Wired Connectivity (for Gamers)
✅
✅
Mechanical Keyswitches
❌
✅
Bluetooth Switching Between 4 Devices
❌
✅
RGB Backlighting
❌
✅
Adjustible Feet
❌
✅
Switch Options for Personalized Feel
❌
✅
Ability to Interchange Keycaps
❌
✅
N-Key Rollover
❌
✅ (Wired)
Available in Multiple Colors
❌
✅
Helvetica Font Keycaps
❌
✅😛
*Native support via USB, hotkey remapping available through third party software in wireless mode.